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When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners completely surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.